A7lan,
The time has come to tell you all about my
shuk-ka, or apartment/flat. To be honest, we live in a house. The top floor is our landlord, which is a man named Imad and his wife Ismeyhah. (They are Canadian citizens, actually). They built the house in the 70's for their children and Imad's mother. They each got a floor, leaving three floors total. When everyone moved out ( or died in his mother's case), the two floors were open for rent. CIEE contacted them and now CIEE students stay in these fully furnished apartments, which are really quite large, with kitchen, bathroom and other amenities.
Here are a few photos of our apartment. As you can see, quite nice!

Our kitchen--where a lot of cooking has taken place.
Our two living rooms.

My room.

A nice view! We have a lemon tree.
Our landlords are not really our landlords-they are our parents. Only women stay in the rented apartment and they consider us their daughters. They control the gas and water so we don't exceed the CIEE limit. Also, on our first evening, Ismeyhah prepared us a gigantic meal of at least six different dishes: three whole chickens, herbed; a Libyan dish with fish; Tabouleh-a dish with parsley; tomatoe and cucumber salad; double friend chicken (
much better than KFC); and a giant rice and meat dish. All of it was
zakee zakee (delicious!)
We are also welcome to have tea or coffee with them. Ismeyhah has taken us on several errands and was kind to buy us some delicious falafel sandwiches. She speaks very good English and is spiritual, but mostly secular. Imad is completely and utterly secular. "Look to Science!" he says.
Imad mostly sits in his robe and sweaters, smoking cigarette after cigarette, and tinkers with devices. As a retired engineer, he gets very bored and therefore takes a part everything. He told us his last tenants did not break anything, and he was disappointed. As we have already broken a few things, I think he is pleased. Also, he is an animal lover...so when my flat mate from the floor above bought a bunny, he was pleased. Currently, he is building a cage.
Imad will certainly provide many funny stories. He is very ridiculous, as well as very kind. They both are very generous and I hope to find time to sit with them more often. It will be hard though, because so far my Arabic class has proved very challenging.
We live in a very nice neighborhood. We are next to several embassies-including the Israeli embassy. I promise you, there are many guards and I do not see many hoodlums about...just street cats, who for the most part just want more garbage to rut through. As much as I would like to save one of these furry felines, I do not know how to go about it
To end this obscenely long post, I will tell you the story of the bunny, named Humza, an Arabic letter which is impossible to predict and hard to pronounce.
After we went to downtown Amman, the old part of the city, we wound up in a
Sooq (a market) that snaked throughout the streets. The smell of fish and the sight of sheep heads almost made you faint, but the smell of soap and herbs kept you stable. Old clothes and fresh oranges sat beside each other. Once we got outside the central part of this maze, we arrived in front of an old woman with several boxes of rabbits (I mean, household rabbits--not street rabbits), some chickens in a closed box, and a rooster with one leg tied to the rabbit box (so, he stood there with one leg.) Oh, and did I mention the turtles? It was a sad sight to see,
hazeen katteer. A few guys from the program joked with my friend Anam to buy one--for 3 JOD (that is about 5 bucks). The woman looked at us and began tossing the rabbits around in different boxes-trying to find the best one. Needless to say, Anam bought the rabbit...which was put in a bag with some straw and handed over. Now, 3 JD is a pretty penny-it could get you a good lunch for certain.
Anam carried the rabbit everywhere, including the cab and in a cafe. Everyone loved the rabbit, even the waiters. The chefs sent out carrots and people came to take photos. I'm sure he did not like the smoke-but such is life as a rabbit from the
Sooq. Our landlord loved the rabbit, we gave Humza a wash and put him in an old dog carrier with some food. He has been in bit of a shock the past few days, but for the most part, he is content. People say he is for eating (no Arab person has said that), but I don't see how that is possible. He is maybe .5 pound.
Ya Haram! How long this post is, I apologize. This is what happens when I put of posting. Amy asked me to post about food, so I hope that last mention was good. Right now, I have been cooking for myself-nothing too exceptional, but fun. At orientation we ate off banquets, not really all that interesting.
Salaam! Please post! love to hear from you all.
p.s. I found a ladies only gym! All the hijaabs come off.